Why Corsage deserves the Best Make-Up &… | Little White Lies

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Why Cor­sage deserves the Best Make-Up & Hair­styling Acad­e­my Award

18 Feb 2023

A woman lying on a couch, wearing a green dress, with her eyes closed and a pained expression on her face.
A woman lying on a couch, wearing a green dress, with her eyes closed and a pained expression on her face.
Helene Lang and Maike Hein­lein smart­ly utilise Sis­si’s per­son­al styling to empha­sise the ways in which she was repressed and sub­se­quent­ly rebelled.

In a new series, we’re cel­e­brat­ing the films we loved that aren’t like­ly to dom­i­nate the awards race. Over the new few weeks, our writ­ers make pas­sion­ate argu­ments for the per­for­mances and craft that stood out to them, from block­busters to art­house and every­thing in between.

There is some­thing beau­ti­ful­ly iron­ic about Empress Sis­si’ Elis­a­beth of Austria’s (Vicky Krieps) refusal to wear make­up that has led Cor­sage to be the win­ner of this year’s Oscar for Best Make­up and Hair­styling in my heart. Marie Kreutzer’s film goes beyond the skin deep, explor­ing the dark cor­ners of the Sissi’s gold­en cage through the ani­mal­is­tic styled wigs and rad­i­cal make­up choic­es that bring the 19th-cen­tu­ry trend­set­ter to life.

The pow­er of hair and make­up was not always recog­nised in the film indus­try, and wasn’t intro­duced as an award until the 54th Oscars in 1982. Since then the cat­e­go­ry has been dom­i­nat­ed by meta­mor­phic films such as David Cronenberg’s The Fly and Tim Burton’s Beetle­juice before more recent­ly cham­pi­oning biopics for their equal­ly impres­sive and trans­for­ma­tive looks. But hair and make­up design­ers Helene Lang and Maike Heinlein’s strip­ping back of the face and enliven­ing Sissi’s hair is a world away from what is nor­mal­ly praised, espe­cial­ly con­sid­er­ing hair­styling was only offi­cial­ly intro­duced into the cat­e­go­ry in 2013

First and fore­most, Kreutzer’s film is about beau­ty – specif­i­cal­ly the dou­ble edged sword of it – mak­ing it Sissi’s most pow­er­ful weapon while simul­ta­ne­ous­ly suf­fo­cat­ing her like the cig­a­rette smoke she inhales in the film, and the corset that crush­es into her ribcage. Long may she live, beau­ti­ful may she remain,” is sung to Sis­si on her 40th birth­day. A pro­to-influ­encer, Sis­si was idolised for her beau­ty and famous for inspir­ing hair trends. Her braids were her most pre­cious and per­son­al beau­ty fea­ture and her hair styl­ists would spend up to three hours styling and a whole day washing. 

Her rit­u­als mir­rored the sort of beau­ty that not every­one has the time or resources to achieve – think of a celebri­ty with spot-free skin, lash exten­sions, and micro-blad­ed brows, shar­ing a make­up free self­ie’. Sissi’s hair would take hours to del­i­cate­ly twist, braid, and pin up, but on her face – no make­up. Just a rig­or­ous skin­care rou­tine con­sist­ing of olive oil baths and raw veal facial wraps which seemed to give her the priv­i­lege to poke fun at women who wore make­up to achieve the beau­ty stan­dards the 19th cen­tu­ry trend­set­ter dan­gled a pedestal above them. 

Lang and Hein­lein brought the vivid Sis­si to life in a way that strays from her real­i­ty and pre­vi­ous reimag­in­ing of her on screen. Despite her unique priv­i­leges, Sis­si was a pris­on­er of her own image and still suf­fered at the hands of the patri­archy. Her eat­ing dis­or­der, use of hero­in and cocaine, and self-inflict­ed pain through use of corsets was a response to the beau­ty stan­dards and expec­ta­tions of women that were and still are upheld by archa­ic rules. While her wish­es to immor­talise her youth and beau­ty have been grant­ed thanks to sou­venir shops across Vien­na, the wigs and stick on mous­tach­es allowed Sis­si a slith­er of the free­dom she yearned for after her 40th birth­day, as well as a rebel­lion from the expec­ta­tions placed upon the empress.  

Group of young men seated at a table, some wearing formal attire.

In Ernst Mariscka’s Sis­si’ tril­o­gy star­ring Romy Schnei­der, the actress fell vic­tim to the con­straints of women in film dur­ing the 1950s and despite the real Sissi’s dis­like of wear­ing make­up, Schnei­der was heav­i­ly made up by make­up artist Fritz Jelinek, and the actress con­tin­ued to be so in future films she starred in. But in Cor­sage, the whole crew agreed to free Sisi how­ev­er pos­si­ble. Echo­ing her sug­ges­tions made on Phan­tom Thread for the char­ac­ter­i­sa­tion of Alma, Krieps encour­aged no make­up. In terms of hair, fly­aways were per­mit­ted and an uneven part­ing would be for­giv­en to por­tray an alter­na­tive and imper­fect ver­sion of a princess. As a result, Krieps believes the strip­ping down of Sissi’s appear­ance was a lib­er­at­ing homage to Schneider. 

Giv­en the film’s title (which refers to the Ger­man for corset), much of the focus and rea­son for Sissi’s oppres­sion and suf­fo­ca­tion is cred­it­ed to her restric­tive bodices, but her hair is just as crush­ing, despite its feath­er­ing. Five dif­fer­ent wigs were designed to recre­ate the aris­to­crat­ic braid­ed hair­styles trade­marked by Sis­si, and hon­oured the mid 19th cen­tu­ry hair tex­ture with sleek hair that explod­ed into indi­vid­u­al­ly curled ringlets. But it was twist­ed to mir­ror the dis­or­der with­in Sissi’s mind. 

The braids would lit­er­al­ly tug at Sissi’s scalp, inflict­ing pain as much as the corset. In Cor­sage they are loos­er but still del­i­cate­ly styled to rein­force Kreutzer’s crit­i­cism of the harm­ful beau­ty stan­dards that Sis­si, and women to this day, are held to. Sissi’s hair is just as much of a char­ac­ter as the empress her­self, serv­ing as a book­mark for the stages of Sissi’s spi­ralling and lib­er­a­tion. As Sis­si begins to rebel, the crown of braids placed on Krieps fall freely down her back – weigh­ing the empress ever fur­ther down and into bat­tle with her­self before a hair­cut as mon­u­men­tal as Samson’s, but instead shifts the pow­er into her own hands. 

In Cor­sage, Sissi’s hus­band Franz Joseph, who is a 19th-cen­tu­ry paint­ing brought to life by actor Flo­ri­an Teicht­meis­ter sport­ing eccen­tric mut­ton chops, tells Sis­si, All you need to do is be appeal­ing – that’s why I chose you, that’s why you’re here.” It seems like an out­dat­ed mind­set, but Kreutzer blurs the line between his­to­ry and the present with anachro­nisms to rein­force the point that women’s social lim­i­ta­tions are just as preva­lent today, because a woman’s val­ue is still cement­ed in her lev­el of beau­ty and hailed as her most impor­tant trait. The only dif­fer­ence between then and now,” Kreutzer says in an inter­view, is that peo­ple used to open­ly talk about it.” 

Since the film’s release, Krieps has been out­spo­ken about the toll embody­ing the empress took on her; it’s under­stand­able why a line between the actress and char­ac­ter was blurred when the treat­ment of women isn’t so far dif­fer­ent today – just sub­tler. But Corsage’s hair and make­up crew dared to fight against this, bran­dish­ing their brush­es like mid­dle fin­gers. By hon­our­ing Sissi’s and Krieps’ refusal of make­up when Schnei­der couldn’t, and unt­a­m­ing the empress’ braids, the sub­ver­sive hair and make­up styling in Cor­sage, high­lights why beau­ty is, in fact, beyond skin deep. 

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