Nova magazine is making its return in a new film | Little White Lies

Women In Film

Nova mag­a­zine is mak­ing its return in a new film

27 Sep 2017

Words by Natalie Wardle

Revealing image of a woman on a magazine cover, wearing a frilled dress and striking a provocative pose.
Revealing image of a woman on a magazine cover, wearing a frilled dress and striking a provocative pose.
The cult fem­i­nist title cap­tured the rad­i­cal spir­it of women’s lib­er­a­tion the 1960s and 70s.

For the movers and shak­ers of 1960s Lon­don, Nova mag­a­zine was a must-read. Launched by Har­ry Field­house in March 1965, its slo­gan promised a new kind of mag­a­zine for a new kind of woman’. The mag­a­zine fea­tured a fierce­ly tal­ent­ed group of young writ­ers and edi­tors, includ­ing Mol­ly Parkin, and pho­tog­ra­phy by Har­ri Pec­cinot­ti, Don McCullin and Ter­ence Dono­van. Armed with an abun­dance of strong female voic­es, Nova’s aim was to talk about what women were real­ly inter­est­ed in: pol­i­tics, careers, health and sex.

Its arti­cles tack­led a range of taboo sub­ject mat­ters, as evi­denced in a 1974 piece titled What is a woman – Men liv­ing as women’, an ear­ly inves­ti­ga­tion into trans­gen­der issues. At Nova, Pec­cinot­ti became one of the first pro­fes­sion­al pho­tog­ra­phers to use mul­ti­cul­tur­al mod­els exten­sive­ly in his fash­ion shoots. He once stat­ed in an inter­view that, Nova start­ed as an exper­i­ment. The think­ing behind it came from the fact that there were no mag­a­zines at the time for intel­li­gent women.”

Recent­ly described by British jour­nal­ist Kate Muir as, a polit­i­cal­ly rad­i­cal, beau­ti­ful­ly designed, intel­lec­tu­al women’s mag­a­zine,” Nova was per­haps a lit­tle too ahead of its time, and ceased pub­li­ca­tion in 1975. Now, how­ev­er, Kes Glozi­er, Edi­tor in Chief of The New British, is telling Nova’s large­ly for­got­ten sto­ry in a gueril­la-style doc­u­men­tary. In the age of Trump, its unwa­ver­ing stance on fem­i­nism and non-bina­ry uni­fi­ca­tion rings truer than ever.

Speak­ing about the project, Glozi­er tells LWLies: There was a lot going on in the 60s and 70s polit­i­cal­ly; women’s lib­er­a­tion was a big part of that and became infused with what the mag­a­zine was doing. I first saw Nova in a David Hill­man book. It was my mum’s book, and I’ve always been drawn to it whether it be an illus­tra­tion I remem­ber look­ing at as a kid, or work­ing out how to design some­thing. It’s always been there in the background.”

Image of a magazine cover featuring the title "NOVA" and the question "WHY DO WOMEN HAVE BABIES?". The image shows a woman lying on her side with her eyes closed.

Nova active­ly chal­lenged the notion that the mod­ern woman desired to dress like Jack­ie Kennedy. Its fash­ion edi­to­ri­als were brim­ming with menswear, sports­wear and mil­i­tary cloth­ing, as lux­u­ry labels were reluc­tant to loan items to the mag­a­zine. In a par­tic­u­lar­ly notable edi­to­r­i­al titled Head for the Hab­er­dash­ery: Re-Think­ing Fash­ion’, styled by Car­o­line Bak­er and shot by Hans Feur­er, high­ly cre­ative key looks were cre­at­ed from hab­er­dash­ery and home fur­nish­ings, includ­ing leg warm­ers fab­ri­cat­ed from mul­ti-coloured fring­ing that appeared on the cov­er. Mean­while, a con­tro­ver­sial edi­to­r­i­al titled Every Tramp Should Have One’ saw a woman pos­ing as a home­less per­son on the streets of Lon­don wear­ing design­er fur coats. It lost the mag­a­zine a string of influ­en­tial advertisers.

Work by heavy­weight names, includ­ing pho­tog­ra­phers Ter­ry Richard­son and David Sims, and styl­ist Nan­cy Rohde, often appeared on the pages of Nova, along with the ear­ly impres­sion­is­tic work of Hel­mut New­ton and the fear­less words of Jean-Paul Sartre, Susan Son­tag and Gra­ham Greene. Inside Nova read­ers could expect to find inno­v­a­tive, stylised typog­ra­phy and mono­chrome pages that were rev­o­lu­tion­ary at the time. Beau­ti­ful­ly designed and unlike any oth­er pub­li­ca­tion, Nova epit­o­mised the style and sophis­ti­ca­tion of Swing­ing Lon­don. Above all, Nova was emblem­at­ic of the sociopo­lit­i­cal changes which came to define the era, pro­mot­ing empow­er­ment and free-think­ing while most oth­er women’s mag­a­zines remained focused on house­keep­ing and ways to please your husband.

The mak­ers of Nova believed that in order to make a large-scale impact you need­ed a shock­ing mag­a­zine cov­er. This invari­ably meant bold images and ever bold­er cov­er­lines: If you want to stay alive FREEZE. £4,000 will keep you on ice’; Where will the sin­gle moth­er live?’; Mummy’s Divorced, Now I’ve Had An Uncle Mark, Uncle Simon, Uncle John, Uncle…’; 50 Years After The Vote. Only The Chains Have Changed’; Adul­tery, Rape, Eroti­cism, Extor­tion — Anoth­er Jol­ly Christ­mas Issue!’ Nova put Aman­da Lear – the best strip­per in Paris” – on the cov­er of one issue and showed Twig­gy shav­ing her armpit on another.

Cover of NOVA magazine showing a woman's face encased in ice. Colourful text advertising a "stay alive FREEZE" offer of £4,000 to keep readers on ice.

At the time of its incep­tion, seis­mic polit­i­cal events such as the Cuban Mis­sile Cri­sis of 1962 and John F Kennedy’s assas­si­na­tion in 1963, cou­pled with the pop­u­lar­i­ty of sex­u­al­ly lib­er­at­ed pop icons, con­tributed to the grow­ing pub­lic desire for rad­i­cal social change. A medi­um with a long his­to­ry of extolling aspi­ra­tional fan­tasies of how women could hope to look was far from immune, par­tic­u­lar­ly among Britain’s young female readership.

The team behind Nova mag­a­zine took full advan­tage of this clear gap in a staid pub­lish­ing land­scape and ran with the cre­ative licence pro­vid­ed by this col­li­sion of con­text: an invi­ta­tion to reflect upon and even shape the zeit­geist, through atten­tion to both rapid­ly evolv­ing fash­ion and soci­ety. Hun­gry female read­ers seized upon this new source of visu­al and intel­lec­tu­al stim­u­la­tion, in line with a long-over­due affir­ma­tion of their soci­etal influ­ence and equal­i­ty by the large­ly male cre­ators of culture.

While the sen­si­bil­i­ty of its edi­to­r­i­al voice and its visu­al con­tent may out­ward­ly have seemed at odds with each oth­er – in one issue an arti­cle express­ing con­cern for the wel­fare state was print­ed next to fash­ion shots intro­duc­ing the sarong as new beach­wear – it was pre­cise­ly this mul­ti-faceted approach that res­onat­ed with read­ers. This extend­ed to per­haps the most per­ti­nent inclu­sion in Nova’s por­trait” of mod­ern fem­i­nin­i­ty: an open and active dis­cus­sion of sex. If women’s fash­ion had always been about sex, women’s mag­a­zines had nev­er said so. Nova changed this, fram­ing cloth­ing as a direct expres­sion of female sexuality.

Cover image of a woman posing semi-nude on a chair, with the title "NOVA" in large green letters at the top.

When Den­nis Hack­ett took over as edi­tor in Sep­tem­ber 1965, his focus on cre­ative free­dom and rad­i­cal­ism pushed Nova’s unique and hon­est voice even fur­ther, and the magazine’s sales fig­ures went through the roof. Clear­ly read­ers want­ed not just to get the lat­est look but to show their sup­port of the lib­er­al revolution.

Most unusu­al­ly, sev­er­al fold-out, full-length images of a sin­gle mod­el were pub­lished, which as the print­ing was dou­ble-sided and extend­ed over mul­ti­ple spreads, often required your buy­ing two copies to com­plete assem­bly. The largest, by Celesti­no Valen­ti and pub­lished in the Octo­ber 1973 issue, was a nude 14ft long. Quite lit­er­al­ly, the sen­su­al, tan­gi­ble Nova woman was larg­er than life and this attrac­tive iden­ti­ty sus­tained female (and male) read­ers’ approval for quite some time.

The demise of Nova after a 19-year print-run can large­ly be attrib­uted to a reduc­tion in for­mat in March 1974, insti­gat­ed as a result of ris­ing paper prices. A sec­ond reduc­tion in size in May hin­dered the magazine’s sales fur­ther still, and five months lat­er Nova dis­ap­peared from news­stands alto­geth­er. Nova was relaunched in 2000, but sur­vived just one year. While none of the orig­i­nal team were present, the mag­a­zine stuck to its found­ing principals.

Tak­ing an anti-celebri­ty approach, the mag­a­zine con­tin­ued to focus on cur­rent women’s polit­i­cal issues, with fash­ion again the main focus, and fea­tured con­tri­bu­tions from the likes of Juer­gen Teller and Vene­tia Scott. Yet despite the involve­ment of some of the most influ­en­tial styl­ists and pho­tog­ra­phers around, the lack of con­tro­ver­sial, out­spo­ken writ­ers meant that the Nova 2.0 could not com­pete with its con­tem­po­raries, leav­ing the magazine’s orig­i­nal incar­na­tion intact as a sym­bol of its time.

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